Alesis 3630 Compressor Mods July 26, 2011 11:55 6 Comments
Touted officially by Alesis as the "most popular dynamics processor ever made," the 3630 is a bargain bin compressor that can be polished to resemble a professional one. The circuit employs some solid design fundamentals, but by all accounts suffers from inferior components and design choices. Various mods have been proposed over the years to considerably expand the sweet spot the 3630, lower its noise floor, and remove the snaps, crackles, and pops the stock unit is prone to. Collected here are those mods that have been deemed the most successful by the people who have tried them. Many thanks go to the originators of these mods who have shared their research with the DIY community.
"The 3630 is basically a dbx compressor. It uses dbx-designed RMS level sensors and VCA gain-change chips. Problem is, most folks have not taken the time to learn how to use this box, find the sweet spots for level setting, gain reduction, gain make up and attack / release times." -Michael Joly via Gearslutz
"I'm not saying that if you follow these steps that you'll have an 1176 or an LA3-A, but the quality of sound exiting the box will be vastly improved merely by swapping out a few components... No smoke? Then the chances are that you've just made your 3630 into something resembling what it should have been in the first place." -Peter Purpose via his GroupDIY writeup
"We have a really small compressor, the Alesis 3630, which is $300. That's the main one we used on Homework and Discovery." -Daft Punk via Mix Magazine
"This upgrade of the Alesis brings the VCA section up to the same spec as a DBX 1066." -"Icarus" via Sound on Sound
Please keep in mind attempting any of the following modifications will void your warranty with Alesis.
Get a 3630
If you don't have one already, these comps can now be found for a pittance on eBay. With a little patience, you should be able to get one for less than $100.
1. Beef Up the Power Supply
Make sure you're modded unit gets plenty of current by switching to a more robust AC adapter. This wall adapter from Line6 provides a hefty 2 amps. While you're in there, consider making these component upgrades to the power section:Qty | New Component | Type | Position | Part # |
---|---|---|---|---|
2 | 220uf/35v | Capacitor | Power | C2,C3 |
2 | 2200uf/25v | Capacitor | Power | C4,C5 |
4 | UF4001 fast recovery | Diode | Power | D1,D2,D3,D4 |
2. Upgrade the VCAs and Opamps
The VCA (voltage controlled amplifier) is responsible for controlling the compressor's gain and as such has a significant effect on the its sound and performance. The THAT2180 series of VCAs represent a high-quality alternative to the stock DBX2150s. Before you remove the stock VCAs, take note of their positioning so that you are sure to install the new ones with the correct orientation. The LF347N quad opamps can be replaced with a number of chips, the LME49740, MC33079P, LT1359. Make sure that the chip you order comes in the DIP-14 format. These upgrades were originally suggested by Peter Purpose in his GroupDIY article.
Qty | New Component | Type | Position | Part # |
---|---|---|---|---|
2 | LT1359, LME49740, or MC33079P DIP-14 | Quad Opamp | Input | U2,U6 |
2 | 2180BL08-U | VCA IC | VCA | U3,U7 |
Peter Purpose's modded unit. Note that the Burr Brown Quad opamps are now unavailable and must be substituted for one of those listed above.
3. Connect the Grounds
In his article on the 3630, Peter Purpose suggests connecting all of the input and output grounds via heavy gauge copper wire.
4. Replace and/or Upgrade Passive Components
Many of the passive components, resistors and capacitors, should be improved or changed to different values. The chart below was compiled by Sound On Sound forum member "Icarus" in this post.
Qty | New Component | Type | Position | Part # |
---|---|---|---|---|
2 | 100k metal film | Resistor | Input | R12,R54 |
2 | 1.69k metal film | Resistor | Input | R14,R56 |
4 | 2.2k metal film | Resistor | Input/VCA | R13,R42,R55,R72 |
4 | 6.2k metal film | Resistor | Input/VCA | R15,R41,R57,R73 |
4 | 240k metal film | Resistor | VCA | R27,R208,R69,R211 |
4 | 20k metal film | Resistor | VCA | R22,R23,R64,R65 |
2 | 470 metal film | Resistor | VCA | R26,R68 |
2 | 100 metal film | Resistor | VCA | R29,R71 |
4 | 33 metal film | Resistor | VCA | R209,R79,R212,R102 |
2 | 5.1k metal film | Resistor | VCA | R25,R67 |
2 | 5.6k metal film | Resistor | Knee | R83,R106 |
2 | 6.8k metal film | Resistor | Knee | R17,R59 |
2 | 2.2M metal film | Resistor | Level | R10,R52 |
2 | 10k metal film | Resistor | Level | R8,R50 |
2 | 22uf audio grade electrolytic | Capacitor | Level | C11,C29 |
6 | 10uf audio grade electrolytic | Capacitor | VCA/Level/Power | C16,C43,C6,C7,C33,C55 |
2 | 22pf metal film | Capacitor | VCA | C15,C32 |
2 | 150pf silver mica | Capacitor | Input | C12,C30 |
Remove | -- | Resistor | VCA | R28,R70 |
Remove | -- | Capacitor | Level | C42,C56 |
5. Disable the Gate
If you don't find yourself using the gate function on your 3630, you can send it and its nasty artifacts packing by simply snipping the two jumpers shown in the picture.
Comments
Jarrett on December 16, 2014 00:26
voltagegrove@gmail.com
Jarrett on December 16, 2014 00:26
Hey Tom,
Currently modifying a few 3630’s, could you please elaborate a bit on your comment referring to the Peak/RMS switch pad patch? This is my last step and I want to be sure to get it right.. Thanks a lot. E-mail me if you wish.
adx on November 12, 2014 17:57
THANKS YOU VERY MUCH! for this
i bought a 3630 that has issues at the voltage supply in or something, bought it too cheap, approx 13 bucks! haha.
if i fix that then this mod will be killer
One question, can this be used as a ,,guitar’’ compressor, does it have hiZ or lo Z?
thanks
Tom on November 12, 2014 17:57
Great article. Will give this a try. You forgot to mention one important part about removing the two caps, described in the sos forum thread.
Other issues
When R28 & 211 are removed are these paths left open? YES – the 2181 has an internal resistor performing this function.
Remember that the Peak switch is not operational due to the removal of C42/56 and will break the sidechain path. Connect + side of C43 & C55 to the Peak/RMS switch pad of C42 & C56 to prevent this. Do this by threading the + leg of the capacitor (C43/55) through the board and looping it over to the switch pad. Be careful not to let it touch the track that it crosses – or leave the loop so high that it touches the aluminium extrusion when the case is reassembled.
Tom on November 12, 2014 17:57
This leads me to a question. Does the 2180BL08-U also have an internal resistor, like the 2181?
Tim on November 12, 2014 17:57
This is a great mod. Does anyone know the part # or values for the tiny diodes D1-12 on the board? Schematic or parts list would totally help me. Thanks.
Comments are closed for this post.